Toilet problems in the Falkenberg municipality

Most commonly the flush valve or the seal at the bottom of the cistern does not seal properly. Then water slowly seeps into the bowl, and the cistern refills over and over. Sometimes you hear it clearly — sometimes you only notice constant movement in the water.

Another common cause is the fill valve/float. If it sticks or is misadjusted it never closes fully, so the water level gets too high and spills into the overflow.

It may feel like a small problem, but a running toilet can waste a lot of water over time. We troubleshoot, replace worn parts and make sure the cistern shuts off and fills correctly again.

It depends on the flow, but even a small constant trickle can add up to many cubic meters in a year. It does not always show immediately on the bill if you do not compare usage over time.

Many people are surprised by how big the difference is once it’s fixed. When the cistern stops refilling and flushing away water, consumption often drops noticeably.

Beyond the cost, worn parts can lead to bigger issues later — for example leaks at connections or the flush suddenly failing.

We can help you assess whether it’s a simple service or if replacement is the most economical long‑term solution.

Weak flushing can have several causes. Sometimes the water level in the cistern is too low, so each flush lacks “power”. That can be an adjustment issue or a worn fill valve.

It may also be that the toilet needs proper internal cleaning. Deposits in the rim channels (where water runs around the edge) can prevent the water from distributing correctly, which reduces flushing performance.

And sometimes the cause isn’t the toilet at all — but further down in the drain line. Buildup or restricted flow can make the toilet “almost” work, but with poorer performance.

We go through the toilet’s function step by step and fix the root cause so you get reliable flushing back.

Slow or inconsistent flushing is rarely “bad luck”. Often it’s too much paper or items that shouldn’t be flushed (wet wipes, cotton swabs, etc.), which reduces flow.

In older drain systems, deposits, sags in the pipe run or previous damage can make the line narrower. Then just a bit more paper than usual can make flushing feel weak.

Sometimes the toilet is also misinstalled or connected in a way that creates turbulence or “traps” material.

We help you identify the cause and improve flow so the issue doesn’t return.

Bad odors can have several causes. A common one is that the trap is not working optimally — due to low water level, deposits, or the toilet not being fully sealed to the drain.

Another possibility is a small leak at the connection, allowing sewer odors up. In some cases it’s related to venting: if the venting does not work correctly, pressure changes can draw odors up or disturb the trap.

In bathrooms, odor can also come from the floor drain, sink or other drains and be perceived as coming from the toilet.

We can troubleshoot systematically and locate the source so you get a real solution instead of just masking the smell.

Water around the base should always be taken seriously. It can be splash from cleaning or condensation in some cases, but if it keeps coming back there is a risk of a leak at the drain connection or the water supply.

A leak at the drain connection can mean water (and in the worst case waste water) getting under the toilet and into the floor structure. That is especially critical in bathrooms with waterproofing — damage can be extensive.

Leaks can also come from the cistern or fittings behind/alongside and run “invisibly” down to the base.

We help you identify where the water comes from and fix it properly so you avoid moisture damage.

Refilling shortly after a flush is normal. But if it refills without anyone flushing, or you hear a “whoosh/fill” sound now and then, it often means the cistern is losing water.

That can be a seal that doesn’t hold or a valve that doesn’t close fully. Then the water level slowly drops and the fill valve opens to top it up.

This is the same underlying issue as a running toilet — and it often costs both water and irritation.

We can service and adjust it so it becomes quiet and stable again.

Yes. We can handle the full replacement: remove the old unit, check connections, install the new toilet and connect safely to both water and drain.

When replacing, it’s also a great time to review if anything should be upgraded: shut‑off valve, flex hose, fittings or floor/wall seal. Small improvements can make a big difference for reliability and serviceability.

We make sure the toilet sits stable, is level, and that connections are tight and tidy. We want it to feel “professionally finished” when we leave.

If you want, we can also advise on model choice, flush type and what fits your bathroom best.

It depends on age, condition and the problems. If the toilet is otherwise in good shape, replacing wear parts in the cistern is often very economical and can make it work like new again.

But if the porcelain is worn, the toilet is very old, parts are hard to find, or you want better function/comfort, replacement can be smart. New toilets can also be water‑saving and easier to clean.

The most important thing is a solution that lasts and that you feel confident with.

We can give an honest recommendation on site: “service this one” or “this is worth replacing.”

Describe the symptoms as clearly as you can: is it running all the time, flushing poorly, leaking around the base, or smelling? Note whether it started suddenly or gradually.

Let us know if it’s wall‑hung or floor‑mounted, and roughly how old it is. If you can, send a photo of the toilet and a photo of the cistern/buttons/connections.

If other drains in the home are affected (e.g., shower or sink), mention that too. It helps determine whether the issue is local or further down the line.

The better the input, the faster we can plan the right fix and bring the right parts so it can be solved in one visit when possible.